On the way to the centre of the island, without beaches and other distractions, Caltagirone feels like a real Sicilian town. Baroque churches, low-key residential buildings along narrow streets, locals enjoying a sweet treat and a chat on terraces, at the shade of orange trees, and, what makes this town special, bridges and steps covered in colourful tiles and a plethora of shops selling artisanal works in the famous Caltagirone ceramics. I only bought one souvenir from Sicily and that was a ceramic head from one such shop.

I have fond memories of walking the streets of Caltagirone and getting a glimpse of the true Sicilian lifestyle.

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From Caltagirone, we continued our journey through the hilly heart of the island, on our way to the north.  Once on Palermo’s coast, we found refuge in a small village, where we spent the next three nights in an old farmhouse-turned-holiday-home, enjoying rural Sicily at its own rhythms. All these in a future post.